Duke Kahanamoku, Hawaii's original Big Kahuna, became a global surfing icon.

Duke Kahanamoku was a real-life American aquaman.

As an Olympic champion, "The Father of Surfing" gained fame and rode the wave of popularity. He later became a soft-spoken hero who saved Hawaiian heritage, as foretold in a king's deathbed prophecy.

Surfing embodies the spirit of unity with water, as Kahanamoku famously stated, "The ocean is my temple, the waves my prayers."

"Every wave is a chance to be reborn."

He is known as the "Big Kahuna," a term used in American slang to describe a dominant personality.

Through Hawaii's aquamarine surf, Kahanamoku's legendary feats were set at record-breaking speed, propelled solely by his muscular arms and legs.

Before Hawaii was one of them, he won five Olympic medals, including three golds, representing the United States.

An international icon emerged during the Olympics, impressing all with his skill on a 16-foot, 114-pound, natural-wood longboard.

"To us, he’s the king of surfing."

Surfing became an Olympic sport for the first time in 2020.

This week, the Paris games welcome back Duke, who is widely recognized as a surfing royalty by surfers worldwide.

"In the 2022 PBS documentary "Waterman – Duke: Ambassador of Aloha," 11-time World Surf League champion Kelly Slater stated that to him, Duke Kahanamoku is the king of surfing."

Kahanamoku was known for his "superhuman" skills, particularly in a legendary sea rescue, and later became a film star before spending his twilight years as Hawaii's official "Ambassador of Aloha."

In his native society, Kahanamoku was born during a period of turmoil. According to many accounts, he was the embodiment of a royal prophecy.

On his deathbed in 1819, Hawaii's King Kamehameha reportedly declared that before his people were completely wiped out, a successor in his likeness would emerge with all the magnificent strength of a fading race.

"My people will gain renown worldwide, thanks to him."

‘A flutter kick and powerful strokes’

Born on Aug. 24, 1890, in Haleʻākala, a renowned coral home in Honolulu associated with members of Hawaii's royal family, was Duke Paoa Kahanamoku.

Duke was not a royal title, but his given name. His father, also Duke, was a police officer; his mother, Julia, was a devoted Christian.

They had eight other children.

The family relocated to Waikiki, where Diamond Head's emerald sparkle now graces its famous surfside beach, making it a top vacation spot worldwide.

In 1911, Kahanamoku's swimming performance gained national attention and remains unbelievable to this day.

In his first official competition, he broke the world record in the 100-meter freestyle in Honolulu Harbor by swimming it in 55.4 seconds, 4.6 seconds faster than the previous record.

"According to the website of the United States Olympic & Paralympic Museum, officials on the mainland were taken aback and doubted the authenticity of the time, but their skepticism was soon put to rest."

The museum states that Kahanamoku's secret was a "new style of swimming" characterized by a flutter kick and powerful strokes.

In 1912, at the Stockholm games, a Honolulu boy was selected to represent the U.S. Olympic team. He achieved his first gold medal in the 100-meter freestyle and also earned a silver medal as part of the men's 4x200 freestyle relay team.

"AAU officials on the mainland were in disbelief."

In the 1920 Olympics in Antwerp, he won two more gold medals in the same two events.

In 1924, Kahanamoku won his final Olympic medal, silver, behind fellow American Johnny Weissmuller. He later became a Hollywood icon, starring in 12 films as Tarzan in the 1930s and 1940s.

Kahanamoku would become a familiar face on the big screen after kicking up a global sports tsunami with his surfboard.

‘Superhuman rescue’

In 1891, five months after Kahanamoku was born, David Kalakaua, the last king of Hawaii, opened his island paradise empire to the world before passing away.

The king signed a treaty in 1875 that granted the United States exclusive access to Pearl Harbor, which had unforeseen consequences on global events.

Outside influences brought dramatic changes to Hawaiian culture.

"Surfer Today reports that by the end of the 19th century, foreign missionaries had almost completely eliminated surfing, or the practice of riding waves, in the Hawaiian Islands."

Surfing's revival was inspired by Kahanamoku's love for the sport and legendary abilities.

Kahanamoku practiced for the Olympics on both coasts, and spent his free time surfing.

His impressive rides on the waves with dolphin-like agility gained international fame, particularly in Australia.

"His widely publicized surfing exhibition … lit the fuse to popularize surfing in Australia."

Eric Middledrop of the Freshwater Surf Life Saving Club, located just north of Sydney in New South Wales, shared with Planet Chronicle Digital via email that his widely publicized surfing exhibition on Jan. 10, 1915, helped popularize surfing in Australia.

"The rest of the world soon followed."

Ten years later, during a legendary feat of humanity that generated international headlines, people who had never seen the ocean followed the Big Kahuna's surfing exploits.

In 1925, while surfing at Corona del Mar, California, Kahanamoku witnessed with horror as a 40-foot yacht was engulfed by a massive wave.

Seventeen passengers were tossed into the ocean, many badly hurt.

"I reached the screaming and gagging victims and began grabbing at their frantic arms and legs."

In contemporary news accounts, Kahanamoku stated that he grabbed at the frantic arms and legs of the screaming and gagging victims.

On four or more trips back and forth to the shore, he rescued eight people. Four more were saved by fellow surfers.

The Los Angeles Times reported that Newport Beach Police Chief Jim Porter described Kahanamoku's rescue act as the most superhuman and the finest display of surfboard riding ever seen in the world.

"The Hawaiian swimmer saved many from drowning with their quick actions."

‘Ambassador of Aloha’

On Jan. 22, 1968, Duke Kahanamoku passed away at the age of 77. He was laid to rest at sea.

The Big Kahuna's legend only grew in later life.

He starred in 15 films, including "Wake of the Red Witch" alongside another renowned American "Duke," his friend John Wayne.

In his leisure time, Kahanamoku played the ukulele, which was adopted by Polynesian performers from Portuguese sailors. His musicianship helped establish the ukulele's association with Hawaiian harmonies.

According to a Facebook account from Duke's Waikiki, a popular Honolulu watering hole named after the hometown hero, he was known to spontaneously dance hula.

The Discover Hawaii website boasts that his larger-than-life presence helped America proclaim Hawaii as the 50th state, melding two cultures into one United States.

In 1959, when Hawaii joined the Union, it officially appointed Kahanamoku as its global "Ambassador of Aloha," fulfilling the prophecy of King Kamehameha.

"My people will gain renown worldwide, thanks to him."

To discover more stories in the distinctive "Meet the American Who..." collection from Planet Chronicle Digital, please click here.

Around the world, the Big Kahuna scans for barrels and bombs while being honored with monuments on beaches in California, New Zealand, Australia, and Hawaii.

The statue of Duke on Waikiki Beach is a significant symbol of Hawaiian customs and heritage.

The surfboard that made surfing famous in Australia is now a worldwide treasure of the sport, with a human caretaker, similar to the Stanley Cup in hockey.

According to Middledrop of the Freshwater Surf Lifesaving Club, this surfboard is likely to be the most significant surfing memorabilia in Australia, if not globally.

The Duke Kahanamoku Surfboard Caretaker, Middledrop, embodies the respect for the Big Kahuna in surf culture as evidenced by their digital signature.

Kahanamoku enjoyed equal reverence in the PBS "Waterman" documentary.

Jason Momoa, the narrator, stated, "When you encounter something that is truly authentic and exceptional, it's impossible not to question your preconceived notions about people."

"He changed lives just by being who he was."